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The Internet's effect on traditional print journalism has been well documented, but one endangered journalistic type seems to have been forgotten: the elusive and secretive food critic. Writing for Business Week, Aaron Ricadela recently investigated the changing, and perhaps diminishing, role of professional reviewers and guides, and how hordes of amateur food bloggers may soon render traditional critics obsolete.Ricadela's piece celebrates the proliferation of bloggers as indicating that "food consciousness is in ascendance." But, Ricadela also laments the idea of professional critics and guides being replaced by blogs that depend "more on enthusiasm than deep knowledge." This very sentiment, that air of superiority and palate elitism, may just be the driving force behind the blog movement, though.
As public knowledge of food grows, many people no longer need, or want, condescending critics to explain formerly exotic or fancy menu items like foie gras to them. If critical food-snobs still want to appeal to casual, yet well informed, diners, adopting an accessible, everyman attitude would certainly be a great place to start. [From: Business Week]
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Comments
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Subscribe to commentsCourtney HensleeSep 13th 2009 6:21PM
I do agree that there is a new breed of food critic around, but I disagree that we can really do without the true critiquing of fabulous food. An amateur food person may be able to discuss experience, give you some strong but bland words to attest to the consumption of things on a menu...
but the ability to distinguish flavours so subtle is like having an ear for good pitch at the orchestra. That same ear can tell you whether the issue is a bad instrument or a below par player.
The good food critic has this dignified taste, but certainly cannot boast an old writing style anymore. To overuse harshness or poopooing demeanor is simply not acceptable in food culture anymore. I do long for the days when a critical article could be written about a chef over-using something, killing a good flavor, or disrespecting a good cut of meat. You do not see that so much anymore as you now see stars or no stars.... boring.
I want my food blog to read like a soap opera... like Hell's Kitchen happened on my plate, but I do understand deep and hidden nuances of food flavour and presentation. So perhaps I am defending the rise of myself and the demise of ancient players.